How many units were u up in 2005 ?

[wiesman02]

Just curious as to how many units you all were up in 2005. Won't ask $$ wise, b/c thats too personal.

I've tried to keep track of my units in an excel spreadsheet.

My record was 939 - 733, + 206 units , a solid 56 % winning percentage.


-Thats w/o taking into account juice.


So if you'd like to post your record, this is the thread for it !

Just curious as to all you all did in 2005. If you think this post is out of line, just ignore it or throw it to the toilet, lol.

[beermantm]

Nice work...........


Did you hit a lot of big ML bets? or did you change the size of your wagers arround??

Either way you did it very nice work indeed.

[wiesman02]

Nope, bets started off at $200, they didn't vary. About mid-way through the year or so, i can't remember, I bumped them up to $400. Every bet was the same amount.

Don't pick ml bets other than baseball. I'll tell ya one thing though, those mL's for the Chicago / Boston game were nice and juicy and I cashed in on 3 of 'em :) . THose were the last ml's i took I believe.

[beermantm]

Well you live up to your name!! Thumbs up from me....:thumbs:

I wish I had a decent year this year and I did start off fairly strong I think my focus shifted to much this year. However I am demolishing the NL .50/$1 rooms averaging $18 an hour for each six max table I sit at. My win at showdown is still only 45% overall but I'm extracting more chips now than ever.

That also is due to a money management system I adapted to poker.

[swoosh022]

beermantm -- would you mind sharing your money management system for poker? I play all the time and am profitable, but don't seem to do well at cash games, only at tournaments and mini-sit downs.

Thanks!

[beermantm]

swoosh022

As much as I would love to it gets quite a bit into the playing of the hands. It's much more of a betting structure than a overall money management system but I can give you a hint or two........

I read alot on the internet about having a certain number of buyin's to prevent yourself from going broke but I found this to not be quite the case........

You still can go broke quite easily even when going all in each time with the best hand. Most will disagree with me but it works like this..........

If the same hand was played 5 times the same way 5 times and you put all your chips in 5 times here is how the outcome could end up looking........

1. win the hand to a fold $5 profit
2. win the hand to a two call $15 profit
3. win the hand again to a fold $5
4. win the hand all in $35 profit
5. Lose the hand all in $90 loss

90-60=$-30

Getting your money in with the best hand doesn't always pay off in the long run because you could lose the one that is the biggest hand and corrupt your winning percentages.........(I know standard deviation but do you want to wait for a million hands for your beting sizes to str8en out?)

However if we played the same hands for exactly 1:1 or betting the pot there really is a limit in the liability. Honestly I don't feel that betting any pot more than 1:1 is a wise move in the long run. Calling pots is a different story........... Calling pots with the proper odds will pay off in the long run. So you have to balance your calling with your betting.

Here is a basic structire that I use and trust me it causes quit a bit of confusion in the other players minds..........

Four of the basic betting sizes.........
1:1 or the size of the pot (50% or better or made hands)
1/2 of the pot (35% to 50% good draws )
1/4 of the pot (Draws to build the pot up )
Minimun bet (used to test the watters )post oak

I also have some areas where I'll throw in 5/8 of the pot and 3/4 of the pot to mix up the play a bit.........(these are used in special circumstances)........

Although it might not seem wise to follow a betting structure because people will read it......... this works because you want people to read it. It also leaves you with out question as to what your next play will be.

Each betting size has a direct corelation to your odds of winning and the amount of people in the hand with you. If your a decent enough poker player you can understand that position is the key to success and hand strength and pot odds is critical.

Here are some basic rules for killing the low limit players...........

Never sit with maniacs......... if your in the room with a maniac raising all the pots just leave the room and find another game.........

Finding a soft game is usually a higher flop percentage game with medium sized pots.

Play tight agressive ...........

Making raises in late position is a huge money maker in low limit games when almost everyone is in the pot already........raising it up the size of the pot gets you alot of good sized pots going.......... My system is a big pots system......... Raising when your stronger in good position puts you into some monster pots it will also shake out most of the limpers and strengthen your hand at the same time......... the beuaty here is alot of the time you will have this pot folded to you....... perhaps more often than you will have to show it down.

For the most part do not bluff.......... There is almost no reason to bluff in the lower limits. Bluffing will get you into trouble. People somehow believe to be agressive you have to bluff quite often but rarely do I bluff......... If I raised a pot and feel the board is weak I might take a 1:1 shot at the pot but if someone calls it you have to play your cards right from here and if it says fold at all that is usually the right move.

Never fall in love with a hand........ in low limits people play anything.......I mean anything. Bet strong only when you are strong. Sometimes even when I hit something on the board and I see there could be trouble ahead I'll check it to see what my oppenents do and if I get a free card I can reevaluate my hand.

Raising for information should be done very sparringly........this will give it a greater effect when someone keeps raising into you thinking you'll fold........this is another pot builder sometimes that pays off. I tend to think of raising as a way to almost reverse your position in a hand. He bet out first and say you have a draw that is solid raise it up and make him act now. If you're tight agressive and are known to fold off alot of pots then chances are you will get an all in or just a call at that point.........

Paired boards.......... Play a paired board alot weaker than you play a hand that is made with the two cards in your hand..... Paired boards in low limit usually mean trouble. For instance You hold Jh5h out of the the blind.........
Flop hits.....
Js Jd 3s
You bet strong and get one caller....... you could mistakenly put him on a flush draw........
turn
Js Jd 3s 10s
You check because you think he's got the nut flush and he checks also.....
River
Js Jd 3s 10s 3d

Now you go all in because you have the full house but your oppenet calls and bingo........

You have J's full of 3's
(Jh5h)
and he has J's full of 10's
(Jc 10c)

Now after you understand most of this which alot is basic....... here is the real nice part of using this structure and raising for the big pots in late positions......... as soon as you start hitting the bigger pots in the late postion on big raises........ you can effective afford to play more hands by limping in in weaker positions. The idea is to punish people for getting into the big pots with you and then every time you limp into a pot all eyes are on your next move. Which for the most part will be a fold......but when it's not they start to get worried.

Controlling a room is alot of what I do. If my raises have no effect or get no credit I raise more or just find another spot to play. Also sometimes I'll call a drawing hand when the pot has been raised and others have called giving me decent odds to call.......even if not perfect the implied odds you have for busting someones KK or AA is huge in low limits. KJ is my best starting hand for profit.........why because I play it right in the right position and fold it if I miss.

Well this gives an idea but it would probably take alot more structure and detail to realy get into exactly what I do.........however it's a quite successfull system.

[swoosh022]

Thank you so much beerman!

I am a very strong position player during tournaments, but found (through history) that I always get beat up, no matter what I do in strong position in low limit poker. When I play up in AC, I find that I do well in both low limit and tournaments, but online, I could never seem to find a good strategy to stay disciplined enough to break some people in those low limit games.

I have the luck you described in the J3 situation. I would be BB with that and have the board come down like it does, and someone would pull out a J-10 and I would lose big when I thought I had a big hand. I think what gets me so frustrated is when I do hit my hand like I should (say playing KQ or AJ) with top pair, but someone will continue to play out their limped in hand, even when I bet big (size of the pot) and they'll catch something on the turn or river.

This never seems to happen when I'm playing in live games, as people drop out fairly quickly, unless they have a strong drawing hand (straight draw) or have a high pair like myself, but online someone would stay in with like a 7-10 and end up catching runner, runner for a straight.

This kind of stuff actually caused me to give up low limit poker and stick to tournaments online, but now this behavior is moving to the tournaments as well. For instance, last night I was playing with 4 players left (top 3 get paid) and had pocket KK. I was BB, everyone dropped out except SB. I raised up $400 to $600 (pot was $400; $100 SB, $200 BB, he called the BB), and he called. King hits on a rainbow flop and I go all in (Another $1200). He calls with A5 suited and catches runner runner spades to be me. I couldn't believe he could make a call with a busted hand.

But, I guess it happens to the best of us.

Thanks for the tips and I'm going to give low limit another try!

[Daws1089]

for what its worth i was up 19.35 units in 2005... the bowl games not included... i think i will take it being my first full season of posting plays. hoping for many more years of success to come.

[bigbag12]

like daws said, for whats it is worth, posted here im 73-51-1 + 24 units

[BigdaddyQH]

I only play Football. Actually, I sould say that I only play football for serious money. I did fade the Lakers on every game for the last 5 seasons, but did not make that wager this season. I also faded the Dodgers last year.

Getting back to football, My record was 37-29 in the Pros, for 56%. I wager the same amount of money on every game so my profit was 5.1 units. Colleges were much better to me. I was 41-26 in the College ranks, for a nice 61% win ratio. My profits were 12.4 units there. Total profit was 17.5 units. Since I play all of my big action in Vegas, that is enough of a profit for me to have to pay taxes on some of it.

I have been doing this for nearly 40 years now, and have found out that College Football is always an easier play than the pros because there are so many more college games. The books can really zero in on the 13-16 weekly pro games, but when you have 40-50 college games a week, it is much harder to hit the line on each game.

[Eagles2005SB]

i think i lost more than 10,000 dollars this year, it was god awful ... The only plus is I won about all of it back playing poker online and in atlantic city